The term mélange is used for such yarns which are produced
by the combination of two fibers (whether of same type but different in color
or type of fiber used is different). Furthermore, mélange yarn can be
classified into two of its very basic types:
Blended Mélange
Yarn: Such type of yarn in which different fibers are
mixed/blended together in a certain fixed ratio, for instance Polyester Cotton
blend.
Non-Blended Mélange
Yarn: Yarn in which there are no different fibers blended
together, but different colored fibers of same type are used to make the yarn
e.g. 100% cotton dyed yarn, 100% bamboo yarn etc.
Melange Yarns also known as "heathers", are a
dramatic and innovative mix of different types of fiber to create magical
textures in the resultant fabric that is woven and knitted from it.
Mélange yarns are popular due to their very attractive and
unique fabric appearance. The wavy like effect due to different fibers blending
and wide range of color tones due to different fibers blending makes it much
popular and rich in look. Its fabric smoothness is much better.
Mélange Yarns are being used in knitwear and denim industry.
In knitwear, mélange is mostly used in t-shirts, uppers, trousers, under
garments, swim wear, socks, bed sheets, curtains, towels. In denim it is mainly
used in weft.
Features of
mélange yarn
Environmental
Friendly: Mélange yarn is a yarn dyed product, which means that part
of the fibers are dyed before mixing into the raw fibers for spinning. Mélange
yarn processing can save around 50% water compared to the conventional
processing of spinning before dying.
Fashion: Mélange
yarn can present multiple colors on one single yarn, which gives it rich
colors, slenderness and tenderness. Textile made of mélange yarn has a certain
ambiguous cyclical effect.
Technology: Mélange
yarn has unique dyeing process, and is highly technological in terms of fiber
dyes, color matching, and mixed textile of multiple fibers.
Benlon India manufactures melange yarns on technologically
advanced machines and are environment friendly, as per latest fashion trends.
Our manufacturing process is error free and shades produced are exactly as per
our customer’s requirement. Melange Yarns produced by Benlon India are in huge
demand both in Indian and international market.
Applications of
mélange yarn
Mélange yarn is widely used in warp and weft knitting
machines, various V-bed knitting machines, and winding machines. Mélange yarn
is applicable to underwear, textile, casual wear, sportswear, shirts, business
suites, socks and all sorts of cloth products, as well as bed linens, towels,
decorative fabrics and other home fabric products.
Modal Melange
Modal melange yarns are produced by mixing colorful modal
fiber in blow room process with demanded melange grade. Different grades of
melange can be produced with each color. The final goods which are made
from modal melange yarns have a perfect appearance thanks to all superior peculiarities
of modal and superior performance.
Modal/Cotton Combed Melanges
Modal/cotton combed melange can be produced from colors which produces modal/melanges.
Viscose Melanges
Viscose melange yarn is produced by mixing colorful viscose
fiber in blow room process with demanded melange grade. Different grades of
melange can be produced with each color.
Cotton / Polyester and Viscose Polyester Melanges
Cotton/polyester and viscose/polyester melange yarns usually
produce grades of gray and anthracite colors.
Manufacturing
Process:
1. Preliminaries of
the Process:
The production of mélange yarn is similar to the simple
(Un‐dyed) yarn, but there are some additional things that need to be discussed
here. Initially, the raw cotton is stored in form of bales in godowns. These
bales after certain time of conditioning are sent to different processing mills
for dyeing. There the bales are opened to flock form and conventionally,
disperse dyes, reactive dyes and VAT dyes are used for fiber dyeing. After this
is done, the bales are returned to the mill; these bales are again opened, well
mixed, conditioned and pressed together in form bales but with a (LOT NUMBER).
This number may vary from mill to mill for identification purpose, but this is
important to discuss because we are not sure that we get the same type of dyed
fibers ( in terms of dye ability, dye affinity, rubbing & washing fastness
) of the fibers every time. This may depend upon the dyeing conditions, dye
quality, recipe, process conditions, fiber used (mature/ immature/ dead fiber
content). These factors are important to consider because these are some
unrevealed factors that causes very common problems in mélange yarn i.e.
rejection of the shade. There comes the importance of making the LOTS, so that
we can easily track from where the error occurs.
This identification leads us to proper issue of bales for
particular order in order to avoid the shade variations. However, another
technique may be used which is termed as “SAMPLING”. For every new LOT or new
mixing of the running order, a sample should be made and get it cross‐checked
with the customer’s sample. In this way we can reduce the chances of error and
shade variation can be limited and predicted in advance, so necessary remedies
can be taken.
2. Types of Blends:
Normally, we speak of types of blends depending upon the
percentage of shade (colored fibers) in the mixing recipe or yarn. So, this
classification mainly depends upon the Shade percentage, but it can also be
done deliberately to ease and balance the process.
a) Blow room
Blend
b) Drawing Blend
a) Blow room Blend Shade:
Such shades which are blended through blow room are called
“Blow Room blends”. Normally, darker shades and shades constituents variety of
colored fibers are run as blow room blend shades. Conventionally, shades having
percentage more than 15% are run as blow room blends. This is done to achieve
the maximum blending and uniformity in the shade.
It should be clear that by the term “shade” here we only
mean the total percentage of colored fibers in the yarn.
b) Drawing Blend Shade:
Such shades which are blended on draw frame in form of
alteration in doublings are termed as “Drawing Blends”. Mostly, lighter shades
are blended on draw frame, as they are easy to blend and provide ease in
balancing the process.
Grey Mélange Yarns
Grey mélange yarn is a special type of yarn and the fabric
which is made from grey mélange yarn is also special. After dyeing, grey
mélange yarns are used for producing woven and knitted fabrics. Below is the
process through which grey mélange yarn is dyed –
1.
Firstly, carrier and vessel should be washed by
hydrose and caustic at 1000 C for 20 min
2.
Next, load the package in the carrier and feed
the vessel
3.
Add wetting agent, anti-foaming agent,
sequestering agent and run at 600 C for 10 min
4.
Drain the water solution
5.
Add wetting agent, sequestering agent, caustic
soda, hydrogen peroxide, optical brightening agent and run at 900 C
for single yarn and 1000 C for double yarn for 40 min
6.
Again drain
7.
Add peroxide killer and run at 900 C
for 10 min
8.
Check peroxide in the package
9.
Drain again
10.
Add washing chemical and run at 900 C
for 20 min
11.
Wash the sample and check
12.
If it is ok, then continue
13.
Drain again
14.
Rinse for 10 min
15.
Add fixing chemical and half actic acid, run at
500 C for 20 min
16.
Add softening agent and rest half acid, run at
600 C for 20 min
17.
Now check the finished sample
18.
All is ok
19.
Drain
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