FDY - Fully Drawn Yarn

Fully Drawn Yarn

Fully Drawn Yarn (FDY) is produced by spinning the yarn at higher speeds coupled with intermediate drawing integrated in the process itself. This allows stabilization through orientation and crystallization. 

Fully Dawn Yarn is used as weft or weaves. It can also be knitted or woven with any other filament yarn in order to produce different varieties of fabrics such as home furnishing fabrics, fashion fabrics, terry towels etc.

FDY is available in 3 lustres, Semi-dull, Bright having circular section & Triloble Bright having triangular cross-sections. Instead of making the fabric with FDY Raw-white first & then dyeing it, Dope Dyed Fully Drawn Yarn can be used to make the colored fabric directly.

Benlon India Limited is producing fully drawn yarn in more than 400 colors. It is being used in sarees fabric in south of India, Varanasi & Mau and furnishing in Panipat.

Benlon India is also manufacturing double colored FDY in 400 and 800 Dn. We take two different color POY components and draw texturize the same together, which gives a fancy effect in furnishing and bed covers.

Fully Drawn Yarns are produced by a continuous polymerisation process. All critical yarn properties such as tenacity, elongation, Uster variation and boiling water shrinkage are closely monitored and controlled. Controlled interlace enables the yarns to be twisted or sized in subsequent operations.

FDY has the following properties -

   1.       Intermingled FDY yarns are suitable for direct twisting, warping and weaving.      

   2.       The fabric made from these yarns have a feel and drape similar to fabrics. Produced from pure silk resulting in high realization of product quality.

   3.       These yarns eliminate draw-twisting and sizing process reducing the cost of products for light and medium range of fabrics.

   4.       There is high efficiency and low breakages in

   5.       Excellent dyeing consistency.

Normal Partially Oriented Yarn (POY) needs to be necessarily texturised before being used for making fabric whereas FDY is drawn fully during the process of spinning itself and therefore does away with the requirement of texturising and can use directly for making fabric.

FDY is generally used for better quality fabric. As the process of texturising is avoided, FDY yields higher contribution as compared to the normal POY. Fully-drawn yarns are used to manufacture textile fabrics without the need for further finishing. Wherever textiles are to hang smoothly or glide fully-drawn yarns are used.

FDY is used in the following products –

    1.       Flags and banners

    2.       Floatation Devices

    3.       Parachutes

    4.       Team Apparel

    5.       Swimwear

    6.       Intimate Apparel

    7.       Compression Fabrics

    8.       Tents

    9.       Cargo Bags

   10.   Upholstery

   11.   Elastic Bands

Manufacturing Process

The Raw material i.e. PET Chips are dried, melted, filtered and then distributed to spinning manifolds followed by spinning position to get fully drawn yarn. To manufacture FDY, PET chips are fed into dryer where the moisture is reduced from 0.30% to 0.0020%. After this, chips are melted, filtered through polymer filter and extruded through the spinnerets. Extruder is electrically heated microprocessor temperature controlled and screw speed is controlled and monitored very precisely to ensure uniform quality. The extruded filaments are cooled by filtered air in the quench chamber with precise temperature control. Air having no turbulence is used to ensure perfect evenness. High quality antistatic lubricating oil is applied to avoid static charges in the yarn. The yarn is taken through heated godets to maintain residual elongation. Air punching is done at regular intervals by intermingling nozzles and finally wound on automatic winder in the take up. The FDY so made is capable of running in high speed warping, sizing, knitting, circular knitting and looms.

Nylon Fully Drawn Yarn

Nylon POY is used as raw material for manufacturing Nylon FDY. For manufacturing FDY one stage high speed process is used. 

The main use of nylon FDY is for stocking, knitting, weaving fabrics, weaving looms and hoovering machines. Also it can be knitted or woven with any other filament yarn to get fabric of various different varieties. It is mainly used in Home Furnishing Fabrics, Fashion Fabrics, Denim, Terry Towel and fishing nets. Nylon FDY is available in bright, semi dull and full dull FDY.

Spinning Speeds

The type of yarn produced during melt spinning is decided by the spinning speed. Low oriented yarn (LOY) is produced at speeds below 1800 m/min. Medium oriented yarns (MOY) are spun between 1800-2800 m/min. Partially oriented yarn (POY) is spun at speeds between 2800 to 4000 m/min., where the yarn is more oriented with a little crystallinity. This gives POY better stability, and therefore, POY is preferred as commercial intermediate for drawn or textured yarns. High oriented yarn (HOY) is spun at 4000-6000 m/min and fully oriented yarn (FOY) is spun at speeds in excess of 6000 m/min.

For nylon-6, the POY speeds are nearly 4000 – 4200 m/min. Nylon-6 spun at lower speeds undergo post spinning crystallization on conditioning. At speeds near to 4000 m/min, nylon-6 POY is stable and essentially consists of crystals, which are deformable during drawing and texturing. Polypropylene has very high rate of crystallization and the material crystallizes in the spinning line at any speed, unless, it is quenched at a fast rate in cold water.

Spinning of fully drawn yarns (FDY) or high performance fibres

High speed spinning of POY at speeds greater than 6000 m/min produces highly oriented and crystalline yarn which may be categorized as fully drawn yarn (FDY). These may be used directly without further drawing, though their properties are inferior to fully drawn yarn obtained by two step process of spinning and drawing. Very high spinning speeds are required to increase the drag force on the spinning filament which in turn increases the stress level in the filament so that polymer chains get oriented and stabilized by stress induced crystallization.

FDY Spinning & Drawing Machine at Benlon India

Benlon India is a quality producer of Fully Drawn Yarn and has latest spinning and drawing machines at its plants. The machines have the following features –

•       Our machines have new type of energy conserving spin beams with 25% less energy consumption compared with conventional ones. 
•            The machines have bottom mounted spin packs bettering evenness of melt flow and the uniformity of spinneret surface temperature and reducing labour as well.
•        New type of quenching system provides smoother air blowing for the better yarn evenness. 
•       The heated godet with thermal tube technology results in more even surface temperature and less energy consumption.
•       Lastly, fully automatic winders with precision winding, maximum 24 packages, leads to higher successful changer-over rate and good package formation.

If you are interested in our products and would like to be part of our growth story, please contact us on sales@benlonindia.com 

For more information about our company and our products, please visit www.benlonindia.com 

Melange Yarns

The term mélange is used for such yarns which are produced by the combination of two fibers (whether of same type but different in color or type of fiber used is different). Furthermore, mélange yarn can be classified into two of its very basic types:

Blended Mélange Yarn: Such type of yarn in which different fibers are mixed/blended together in a certain fixed ratio, for instance Polyester Cotton blend.

Non-Blended Mélange Yarn: Yarn in which there are no different fibers blended together, but different colored fibers of same type are used to make the yarn e.g. 100% cotton dyed yarn, 100% bamboo yarn etc.

Melange Yarns also known as "heathers", are a dramatic and innovative mix of different types of fiber to create magical textures in the resultant fabric that is woven and knitted from it. 

Mélange yarns are popular due to their very attractive and unique fabric appearance. The wavy like effect due to different fibers blending and wide range of color tones due to different fibers blending makes it much popular and rich in look. Its fabric smoothness is much better.

Mélange Yarns are being used in knitwear and denim industry. In knitwear, mélange is mostly used in t-shirts, uppers, trousers, under garments, swim wear, socks, bed sheets, curtains, towels. In denim it is mainly used in weft.

Features of mélange yarn

Environmental Friendly: Mélange yarn is a yarn dyed product, which means that part of the fibers are dyed before mixing into the raw fibers for spinning. Mélange yarn processing can save around 50% water compared to the conventional processing of spinning before dying.

Fashion: Mélange yarn can present multiple colors on one single yarn, which gives it rich colors, slenderness and tenderness. Textile made of mélange yarn has a certain ambiguous cyclical effect.

Technology: Mélange yarn has unique dyeing process, and is highly technological in terms of fiber dyes, color matching, and mixed textile of multiple fibers.

Benlon India manufactures melange yarns on technologically advanced machines and are environment friendly, as per latest fashion trends. Our manufacturing process is error free and shades produced are exactly as per our customer’s requirement. Melange Yarns produced by Benlon India are in huge demand both in Indian and international market.

Applications of mélange yarn

Mélange yarn is widely used in warp and weft knitting machines, various V-bed knitting machines, and winding machines. Mélange yarn is applicable to underwear, textile, casual wear, sportswear, shirts, business suites, socks and all sorts of cloth products, as well as bed linens, towels, decorative fabrics and other home fabric products.

Modal Melange

Modal melange yarns are produced by mixing colorful modal fiber in blow room process with demanded melange grade. Different grades of melange can be produced with each color. The final goods which are made from modal melange yarns have a perfect appearance thanks to all superior peculiarities of modal and superior performance.

Modal/Cotton Combed Melanges
Modal/cotton combed melange can be produced from colors which produces modal/melanges.

Viscose Melanges

Viscose melange yarn is produced by mixing colorful viscose fiber in blow room process with demanded melange grade. Different grades of melange can be produced with each color.

Cotton / Polyester and Viscose Polyester Melanges

Cotton/polyester and viscose/polyester melange yarns usually produce grades of gray and anthracite colors.

Manufacturing Process:

1. Preliminaries of the Process:

The production of mélange yarn is similar to the simple (Un‐dyed) yarn, but there are some additional things that need to be discussed here. Initially, the raw cotton is stored in form of bales in godowns. These bales after certain time of conditioning are sent to different processing mills for dyeing. There the bales are opened to flock form and conventionally, disperse dyes, reactive dyes and VAT dyes are used for fiber dyeing. After this is done, the bales are returned to the mill; these bales are again opened, well mixed, conditioned and pressed together in form bales but with a (LOT NUMBER). This number may vary from mill to mill for identification purpose, but this is important to discuss because we are not sure that we get the same type of dyed fibers ( in terms of dye ability, dye affinity, rubbing & washing fastness ) of the fibers every time. This may depend upon the dyeing conditions, dye quality, recipe, process conditions, fiber used (mature/ immature/ dead fiber content). These factors are important to consider because these are some unrevealed factors that causes very common problems in mélange yarn i.e. rejection of the shade. There comes the importance of making the LOTS, so that we can easily track from where the error occurs.

This identification leads us to proper issue of bales for particular order in order to avoid the shade variations. However, another technique may be used which is termed as “SAMPLING”. For every new LOT or new mixing of the running order, a sample should be made and get it cross‐checked with the customer’s sample. In this way we can reduce the chances of error and shade variation can be limited and predicted in advance, so necessary remedies can be taken.

2. Types of Blends:

Normally, we speak of types of blends depending upon the percentage of shade (colored fibers) in the mixing recipe or yarn. So, this classification mainly depends upon the Shade percentage, but it can also be done deliberately to ease and balance the process.

a)      Blow room Blend

b)      Drawing Blend

a) Blow room Blend Shade:

Such shades which are blended through blow room are called “Blow Room blends”. Normally, darker shades and shades constituents variety of colored fibers are run as blow room blend shades. Conventionally, shades having percentage more than 15% are run as blow room blends. This is done to achieve the maximum blending and uniformity in the shade.

It should be clear that by the term “shade” here we only mean the total percentage of colored fibers in the yarn.

b) Drawing Blend Shade:

Such shades which are blended on draw frame in form of alteration in doublings are termed as “Drawing Blends”. Mostly, lighter shades are blended on draw frame, as they are easy to blend and provide ease in balancing the process.

Grey Mélange Yarns

Grey mélange yarn is a special type of yarn and the fabric which is made from grey mélange yarn is also special. After dyeing, grey mélange yarns are used for producing woven and knitted fabrics. Below is the process through which grey mélange yarn is dyed –   

    1.       Firstly, carrier and vessel should be washed by hydrose and caustic at 100⁰ C for 20 min      

    2.       Next, load the package in the carrier and feed the vessel

    3.       Add wetting agent, anti-foaming agent, sequestering agent and run at 60⁰ C for 10 min

    4.       Drain the water solution

    5.       Add wetting agent, sequestering agent, caustic soda, hydrogen peroxide, optical brightening agent       and run at 90⁰ C for single yarn and 100⁰ C for double yarn for 40 min

    6.       Again drain

    7.       Add peroxide killer and run at 90⁰ C for 10 min

    8.       Check peroxide in the package

    9.       Drain again

    10.   Add washing chemical and run at 90⁰ C for 20 min

    11.   Wash the sample and check

    12.   If it is ok, then continue

    13.   Drain again

    14.   Rinse for 10 min

    15.   Add fixing chemical and half actic acid, run at 50⁰ C for 20 min

    16.   Add softening agent and rest half acid, run at 60⁰ C for 20 min

    17.   Now check the finished sample

    18.   All is ok

    19.   Drain

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Chenille Yarns

Chenille Yarns

Chenille Yarns are a special type of yarn with pile protruding on all sides, produced by first weaving a fabric, usually with cotton or linen warp and silk, wool, rayon or cotton weft; the warps are taped in groups of four and the wefts are beaten in very closely; after weaving, the fabric is cut lengthwise between each of these groups of warp yarns, each cutting producing a continuous chenille which is then twisted. The word Chenille means caterpillar in French. Chenille derived its name from the process it is made.

The chenille yarn is manufactured by placing short lengths of yarn, called the "pile", between two "core yarns" and then twisting the yarn together. The edges of these piles then stand at right angles to the yarn’s core, giving chenille both its softness and its characteristic look. Chenille will look different in one direction compared to another, as the fibers catch the light differently. The yarn is commonly manufactured from cotton, but can also be made using acrylic, rayon and olefin.

Chenille is a difficult yarn to manufacture, requiring great care in production. Due to the nature of chenille's pile direction, pile completeness and pile loss, great care must be taken in converting chenille into final articles.

Benlon India’s Chenille Yarn is made from a perfect blend of the high-grade Polyester, Acrylic, Cotton, and other yarns. To ensure the excellent quality standards of our Chenille Yarns, we strictly test them on various intervals by making use of advanced testing facilities. All these factors have boosted the demand of our Chenille Yarn in the market across the world and made Benlon India a preferred name in the industry.

Chenille yarns are traditionally used in the manufacture of furnishing fabrics and trimmings, fashion knitwear, and as decorative threads in many types of broad and narrow fabrics.

Taking Care of Chenille Fabrics  -

Dyes, color treatment and washing characteristics : Turn the fabric wrong-side out before washing. Either hand wash or machine wash in a gentle cycle with low heat. Dry flat. 

Draping properties : Chenille should never be hung, as it will naturally stretch and lose its shape.

Cutting properties : Can be cut in double layers, but weights should be used to hold the fabric in place and prevent it from stretching.

CHENILLE QUALITY TOLERANCES: The nature of the chenille process results in a wider range of yield and twist variation compared to other yarn manufacturing processes. The yield and twist tolerances are as follows:
INTERNATIONAL SPECIFICATION FOR CHENILLE COUNT AND TWIST TOLERANCES

Sample Size	1	5	10	25	100
Count/Yield (% ±)	20.0	10.0	6.0	4.0	2.0
Twist (% ±)	20.0	10.0	6.0	4.0	2.0

Sewing challenges : Cut pieces should be serged to prevent the edges from unraveling. Push the fabric into the presser foot while say rather than letting the feed dogs pull the fabric forward to prevent it stretching while sewing. For interfacing, use a fusible tricot. A walking of teflon foot is best on the sewing machine. Sew seams with straight stitches and press seams open. It is usually advisable to cover the fabric with a press cloth while pressing, and press on the wrong side of the fabric, as pressing the right side will flatten the nap. The iron can be hot and with steam. Topstitching should be avoided. Hand hemming is the best choice, after serging the edges.

Cleaning : Since Chenille fabric is typically made from cotton, wool and silk, if no instructions are given for washing the particular fabric then wash as for the fabric type.

Stains on the chenille fabric should be treated right away and cotton towel should be used to faint it. Do not rub the stain as it may spread the stain and make the chenille harder to clean. Brush the stain with baby's hairbrush. It will not only help in removing the stain, but it will keep the fabric condition good and soft. Clean the stain with mild detergent, and use clean cotton towel to apply the solvent to the product. If the stain is hard to remove and it requires more extensive cleaning then utilize the services of the upholstery cleaners. If the stain is occurred on an item like chenille fabric blanket, you can wash it to make the stain fade away. 

Uses of Chenille material: Chenille material is used in making bedspreads.This material became popular and is used in blankets, pillows, comforters, curtains and rugs etc. It is also used in making robes, bed jackets and slippers.

History

According to textile historians, chenille-type yarn is a recent technique, being produced in the 18th century and is believed to have originated in France. Back then the yarn was actually made by weaving a "leno" fabric and then cutting the fabric into strips to make the chenille yarn.

Alexander Buchanan was a foreman who worked in a Paisley Scotland fabric mill and here he developed a way to weave fuzzy shawls. Here tufts of colored wool were woven together into a blanket that was then cut into strips. They were treated by heating rollers in order to create the frizz. This resulted in a very soft, fuzzy fabric named chenille. Another paisley shawl manufacturer went on to further develop the technique. James Templeton and William Quigley worked to refine this process, thus creating the idea of applying this technique in order to create imitation oriental rugs. The intricate patterns used to be difficult to reproduce by automation, but this technique solved that issue.

In the 1930s, usage for the tufted fabric became widely desirable for throws, mats, bedspreads, and carpets, but not as yet, apparel. Companies shifted handwork from the farms into factories for greater control and productivity. With the trend towards mechanization, adapted sewing machines were used to insert raised yarn tufts.

Chenille became popularized for apparel with commercial production in the 1970s.

Standards of industrial production were not introduced until the 1990s, when the Chenille International Manufacturers Association (CIMA) was formed with the mission to improve and develop the manufacturing processes

One of the problems with chenille yarns is that the tufts can work loose and create bare fabric. This was resolved by using a low melt nylon in the core of the yarn and then autoclaving (steaming) the hanks of yarn to set the pile in place.

Use of Chenille in Quilting

Since the late 1990s, chenille appeared in quilting in a number of yarns. As a yarn, it is a soft, feathery synthetic that when stitched onto a backing fabric, gives a velvety appearance, also known as imitation or "faux chenille". Real chenille quilts are made using patches of chenille fabric in various patterns and colors, with or without "ragging" the seams.

The chenille effect by ragging the seams, has been adapted by quilters for a casual country look. A quilt with a so-called "chenille finish" is known as a "rag quilt" or, a "slash quilt" due to the frayed exposed seams of the patches and the method of achieving this. Layers of soft cotton are batted together in patches or blocks and sewn with wide, raw edges to the front. These edges are then cut, or slashed, to create a worn, soft, "chenille" effect.

Manufacturing Process

Chenille yarn is manufactured on a machine that is designed to bring the pile yarns and core yarns together. During manufacture, the pile yarns are wrapped around a short stem of polished metal, called a caliper, through which a blade passes to cut the pile yarns into short lengths. The core yarns are pressed onto the short lengths with a rotating metal wheel.

The resulting yarn is then fed onto a traditional ring twisting take up mechanism. In the twisting process, the two ends of core yarn twist and trap the short ends of pile between the core yarns. The size of the caliper determines the diameter of the resulting yarn. The size and number of the pile yarns and how much of them are fed onto the core determines the count of the yarn.

Chenille is manufactured in a two step process. Step one is the manufacture of the chenille onto a chenille bobbin, and step two is the rewinding of the chenille onto a cone or dye tube. An electronic clearer is located in the yarn path of step two to detect lengths of yarn that have pile missing. When the electronic clearer detects a section of missing pile greater than the minimum setting specified (usually 3 mm), a cutter is electronically activated. The yarn is cut, and the winder operator then pulls the yarn back and cuts out the missing pile section, reties the yarn, and continues winding the package. The electronic clearer devices are almost 100% effective.

Knots and Splices: Knotting or splicing chenille must be done carefully to avoid defects in the items that use chenille yarn. Simply tying a knot in the chenille yarn itself creates such a defect, so there are two alternative methods for "tying" the chenille yarn.

Method one is a core knot. This is made by stripping back the pile of both ends of the chenille sufficiently so that it is possible to tie a double square knot in the core yarns. Care has to be taken to hold the twist in the yarn ends where the pile starts. Once the double square knot is tied, the ends are clipped close to the small knot. The pile ends are then pushed over the knot. Method two uses a splice. To create the splice, the two ends of chenille are overlapped 1 ½ to 2 inches and a mechanical wrap-around splicing device applies the wrap yarn. The wrap yarn can be either a fine monofilament nylon or a very fine yarn of the same fiber as the chenille pile.

Pile Direction: The chenille manufacturing process creates pile that lies in one direction. When woven into a fabric, chenille reflects light differently when viewed from different directions. This is known as the "reflection effect," and it is one of the unique and desirable characteristics of chenille goods. Because of this, strict control of the pile direction must be maintained during both the step of manufacturing the chenille and also all subsequent processes required to convert the chenille into a finished article.

It is not possible accurately to visually evaluate the direction of natural or dyed chenille yarn in its yarn form. Weaving the chenille yarn into a solid test fabric is the only way of detecting the true direction of a yarn. The appearance of a "V" or an inverted "V" in the pile can reflect other characteristics of the chenille yarn other than direction. Following step one of manufacturing, the yarn has direction one. After the winding process in step two, the yarn has direction two. The chenille yarn producer has taken all the necessary steps to ensure that the chenille yarn is all in the same direction when it is shipped to the user.

The chenille yarn user must take care to maintain the same pile direction throughout manufacturing. For example, with yarn sold on dye tubes and coned after dying, if rewinding is necessary (as in the case of cross-wound yarn or packages that are too hard or soft), the yarn must be rewound TWICE so that all the yarn remains in the original pile direction. If this rule is not strictly observed, streaks will result in the final fabric.

Benlon India takes every precaution to provide you Chenille Yarn of the best quality. If you are interested in our products and would like to be part of our growth story, please contact us on sales@benlonindia.com 

For more information about our company and our products, please visit www.benlonindia.com 

Space Dyed Yarns

Space dyeing is a technique used to give yarn a unique, multi-colored effect. A space dyed yarn is made up of two or more different colors repeating themselves as compared to a typical yarn which is of a same color throughout. Space dyed yarn is also known as dip dyed yarn.

A special chemical called mordant is used for space dying yarn. The purpose of a mordant is to help permanently fix the dye to the yarn after the space dyeing process.

Space dyed yarns are either in coordinating shades or contrasting shades. Space dyeing yarn in coordinating colors provides a subtle yet sophisticated look, whereas Space dyed yarn in contrasting shades offers a funkier feel.

Spaced dyed yarn is most commonly used for knitting and crocheting. When space dyed yarn is made to make a knitted or crocheted item, the resulting project features uneven horizontal stripes that produce a collage-like effect. However, the size of the stripes in the finished piece depends on what size of yarn is used. For e.g., thicker yarn produces thicker stripes. Blankets, scarves, stockings, caps, etc. can be easily made with space dyed yarns.

Benlon India can offer space dyed effect in almost all available yarn qualities to enhance the look and aesthetic properties of the fabric. Our speciality fancy yarns are widely accepted throughout India and abroad. We are manufacturing high quality of Space Dyed Fancy Yarns suitable for ladies wear, men’s wear and furnishing. 

The space dyeing can be performed on different type of textile yarn like Cotton, Viscose, Polyester, Wool, Silk, Acrylic, Nylon and their commonly used blends by using various dye classes suitable for dyeing these substrates.

There are six basic processes used to create this effect:

Space Dyeing in Package Form

In a package dyeing machine, the color is injected at a fixed place at a high pressure and collected through a vacuum. The result is different patches having different colors which may or may not be at fixed intervals and, hence space dyed yarns are obtained. Various package dyeing machines are available in which we can dye up to 8 colors.
This results in beautiful patterns of dyed patches on package, with good sharpness. The dyeing time is extremely low. The packages are then taken for further color fixation and washing on another set of machines such as autoclave and yarn dyeing machines.

Space Dyeing in Hank Form

This is a simpler process to produce tie dye effects in knitting yarns and embroidery threads. The process which can be employed is –

a.       Spray the colors on a layer of hank at fixed places, which are fixed through hank with pressure and collected underneath by vacuum. Dry the yarns, cure them for color fixation and then wash them.

b.      The roller dyeing machines can be used very effectively for space dyeing with vat and naphthol colors.

c.       Space dyeing machine with fiber carrier can also be used for space dyeing in polyester hank, however the method involves a higher labor cost.

The Yarn Printing or the Warp System

Warp printing is roller printing applied to warp yarns before they are woven into a fabric. In the Warp yarn printing process, the roller printing is applied to multiple strands of yarns which are continuously printed at specific space intervals with different colors. These yarns have usually long spaces of each color.
Warp printing is used for expensive cretonnes and upholstery fabrics. Mordants are used to chemically bond the dye to substrate. These yarns when woven into fabric produces eye-catching designs.

The Knit-de-Knit Process

In the knit-de-knit process, the yarn is first knitted into tubular fabrics and then overall length of all loops is dyed to a solid color. All solid-colored dyed loops of tubular knitted fabric are dyed with up to seven different colors. After dyeing, tubular fabrics are passed through an ager, where they are steamed for 3-10 minutes in saturated steam. Mordant is used to chemically bond the dye with skein. This is followed by rinsing, washing, finishing and drying.
The socks are then de-knitted, producing contrast effect between overprinted and base colors because the overprinted color does not penetrate at the yarn crossing points.

The Continuous Dye Process

In the continuous dye process, yarn is dyed as singles or plied yarn and color is applied either by air jet or dye troughs. This process allows for yarns to have either long or short spaces of color.

Pot Skein Dyeing Process

This process involves the following steps –

1.       Yarn skein is added to the pot having water before heating it. This helps in the reduction of movement of dye in the pot when added, enabling maximal separation between the colors.

2.       Water present in the pot is boiled and skein is adjusted in the pot with a spoon.

3.       Different colored dye is added into the pot with each drop in a different spatial area. There is no stirring the contents of pot in whole process as we want as little movement in the dye bath as possible.

4.       The skein is left in the pot undisturbed until all of the dye has been absorbed into the skein.

5.       When skein is cool enough to touch, it is washed with warm water and mild soap until the rinse water runs clear.
Multicolored skein is obtained in this process with each strand of yarn having random colors on it at random intervals which produces very distinct designs when transformed into fabric.

Such space dyed yarns produce beautiful effects after weaving and knitting and are used to produce fancy design effects in apparel wear, dress material, children wear and home furnishing. Also, use of such space dyed yarn is becoming popular in carpet making industry which in its subsequent tufted fabric form imparts an effect of random, unorganized designs. Carpets made of space dyed yarns are being widely used in corridors, lobbies, offices, classrooms, hotel rooms and other public areas.

Suitability of Space Dyed Yarns:

·         It gives a streaky appearance to the fabric that is woven from space dyed yarns.

·         On wool, space dyeing is affected by knit process.

·         The fabric that is knitted is sparsely dyed and then deknitted to be used in other fabric constructions.

Advantages and Dis-advantages of space dyed yarn

Advantages:

·         Space Dyeing Yarn is less costly than stock or top dyeing because the processes are more productive.

·         Space Dyeing Yarn permits excellent penetration of dye in to the fibre and thus produces a great clarity of colour.

·         Fabrics made of Space Dyed Yarn tend to be more colour fast than those dyed after the fabric is woven.

·         When yarns are dyed separately, interesting colour effects can be introduced in to the weaving process by combining yarns of different colours.

·         In general, yarn dyeing is less labor intensive than fibre dyeing.

·         Space Dyeing Yarn permits the use of variously coloured yarns in a single fabric, thus giving the designer latitude in creating plaids, checks, stripes, muted colour arrangements and iridescent effects.

Disadvantage:

·         The major disadvantage of Space Dyed Yarn is the sensitive timing. Applying colour so early in the production stage means that colour forecast must be extremely accurate to provide adequate yarn for fabric production and avoid a costly oversupply.

·         It is more costly than piece dyeing and printing.

If you are interested in our products and would like to be part of our growth story, please contact us on sales@benlonindia.com 

For more information about our company and our products, please visit www.benlonindia.com  

Slub Dyed Yarns

Slub Dyed Yarns

Clothing makes a statement and ultimately people are judged by their fashion selections the minute they step outside. Fashion is no longer only for the rich and thanks to the development of fashion retailing, it is now available for the majority at affordable prices. Fashion clothing is fast moving from a once utilitarian and functional product towards an inspirational and more psychologically uplifting aspect of consumer purchasing. Good fashion buyers leave no stone unturned as to where they seek inspiration for the next fashion trend. People buy the newest styles to establish themselves as individuals. Growing levels of disposable income among the middle class are the major forces driving the growth of the fashion and lifestyle segments in the country.

If the textile manufacturers need to add value to their product, they should not stop by with just applying new fabric patterns or innovative garment designs. If looked back along the production value chain, value addition scope might be discovered opening up at the yarn stage.

One such value addition in yarn production that has begun to sway the yarn market of late is the rediscovery of ‘slub’ yarn or the ‘effect’ yarn.

Slub yarn proved to be the perfect example of blessing in disguise. Earlier, during the process of automated carding and spinning, a soft lump or slub would appear from time to time over each run of one thousand linear feet of yarn, and would have to be removed before the material would be ready for warping or twisting. However, slowly the concept of yarns containing a high count of slubs as a textural and style alternative began to develop.

Slub yarn is a yarn having irregularities and varying thickness, which are bought about intentionally. By just modifying the production process, an enormous range of minute variations can be created. As a result, slub yarn produces a remarkable visual effect. It is mainly used in denim, shirting, knitwear and casual wear.

Initially, there were standards set in place that established what was considered an acceptable amount of slubbed yarn for first quality grading and sale. Yarn manufacturers would work to adjust or modify their machines in order to make sure the presence of slub in the yarn remained within acceptable perimeters. Yarn with slubs started to be used to add texture to fabrics, and also in the creation of what was referred to as slubbed silk.

By spinning slub yarn with predictable, repeating slubs, the material woven from it develops roves, or intentional patterns within the fabric. However, slub yarn has inherently has weak spots where there are roves. The challenges faced by any slub yarn manufacturer is to avoid thin places after and before the slub and to have maximum strength in the yarn.

Slub yarn may be considered a big problem or be an intentional element in fabric design, it all depends on the intended end use of the yarn. Yarns used for goods that need to have a high level of durability, such as upholstery for furniture or car seats, slub presence is not required. Yarn that is used to create soft material for table lines, window treatments or casual wear like denim, may include slub for the added visual impact.

Slub yarns are yarns of variable denier which are useful for providing special texture to fabrics. The frequent changes in denier along the length of the yarn provide a raised surface in finished fabric which is quite obvious and pleasing to the viewer. This effect is well recognized, for example, in linen fabrics. 

The combination of thicknesses and random variations ensures a range of effects, so rich that slub spinning is gaining ground in a growing number of applications. Slub yarn is no longer just present in traditional fabrics used in upholstery, lace, net curtains and household fabrics in general but it is becoming more popular in the production of denim, shirting, knitwear and more vivid casual wear.

A slub yarn can be used either as a single or a 2-ply yarn. The single slub yarn is untwisted or loosely twisted, spaced irregularly along the length of the yarn, creating soft, puffy areas much like the appearance of a thick-and-thin yarn. In a 2-ply yarn, the slubs may either be present in both plies of the yarn, or may only appear in one of the two plies, with the second ply acting as a stabilizer for the two-ply yarn construction.

Benlon India Ltd has been manufacturing slub yarn for long and is now a renowned name in the industry. Our yarns are carefully manufactured having slubs within industry set standards while maintaining the durability of the yarn and is therefore used by some of the leading brands nationally and internationally.

Types of Slub Yarn –

Injected Slub Yarn

In this process, two yarns are twisted together and short fibres are injected into the form-locking connection. These "Injected Slubs" or flame-effects are produced and located in just the right places. Its length, thickness and distance can be varied to create different structural effects on the fabric.

Micro Slubs and Multi Count Yarn

These yarns are made using the latest computerized yarn designing technique. The machines helps the spinners in designing, combining, and mixing different slub patterns in a single yarn. It is possible to create attractive and innovative patterns as per one’s imagination with the help of these machines.

Polyester Slub Yarn

100% Polyester, Polyester/Cotton 40/60 & Polyester/Viscose 65/35 Slub yarns can also be manufactured using the latest computerized yarn designing technique. It is possible to create attractive shades with single component dyeing of Cotton or Viscose portion.

Linen Look Yarn

The concept of yarns containing Nano-slubs as a textural and style alternative has begun to develop. While retaining an overall smooth texture, Nano-slub made out of pure Supima also is characterized by what is referred to as "Linen look knit fabric". Essentially, a Nano-slub is an intentional pattern of slub yarn that is produced when spinning and twisting machinery is adjusted to allow the presence of the fuller lumps in the yarn itself. The result is that when the fabric is knitted, the Nano-slubs form a continuous pattern in the material with a very pleasing "Linen look" effect.

Viscose Slub Yarn

Known for their soft and absorbent features, Viscose slub yarn fabric soothe and cool skin faster as compared to cotton.

Process of Slub Yarn manufaturing

The process for the manufacture of slub yarns from continuous filaments comprises feeding continuous filaments through the inlet orifice of a guide tube at a feed rate superior to the withdrawal rate at the outlet orifice. Then sucking them into a connecting tube by means of a sucking jet in such a manner that an increasingly enlarging open loop is formed; wherein a gaseous medium, in intervals and periods of time programmed by a control system, is blown into the connecting tube. Thereby passing through the feeder tube of a blowing jet mounted to the end of the connecting tube which is adjacent to the guide tube; the gaseous medium causing a ligature of the neck of the open loop of the yarn, which loop so ligatured is subsequently united over its total length with the continuous filament.

Despite technological advancement, slub yarn manufacturers and spinners still face some problems while slub yarn manufacturing. They are as follows –

· Randomness of the intended slub effect
· Yarn mix-up (wrong bobbins)
· Repeated patterns
· Mass decreases before or after the slub
· Relating the settings of the slub insertion system to characteristics or parameters of a slub yarn and eventually relating them to the fabric appearance 

However, Benlon India takes every possible care and has technically qualified staff to manufacture slub yarns without facing any such problem.

If you are interested in our products and would like to be part of our growth story, please contact us on sales@benlonindia.com 

For more information about our company and our products, please visit www.benlonindia.com  

Polyester Cationic Dyed Yarns

Polyester Cationic Dyed Yarns

Polyester Cationic Dyed Yarn is produced from CDP chip that consists of dimethyl isophthalate with polar radical SO3Na.The dye-absorption property of fiber is greatly improved. It is thus easy to be dyed with improved dye-absorption rate and moisture-absorption property. Cationic Dyed Yarns have features like light and water color fastness, vivid color and luster, good deep dyeing property, high dye-absorption rate, good stability in high temperature dyeing solutions and high stability of dyes when the PH value changes in dyeing bath.

The special properties of a cationic dyed polyester yarn are –

•      Cost effective dyeing procedure using intensive cationic dyes and low dyeing temperatures from 98⁰ to 120⁰C
•      Excellent bath exhaustion
•      High dyeing speed
•     Cationic yarns can also be colored using disperse dyes up to 120⁰C
•     Ideal mixing element for wool or elasthane fibres (Lycra) that cannot be dyed at high temperatures
•     Offers good combination possibilities with other fibers – mixing element for dual-tone and multi-color effects
•     Shows high luminosity when using cationic dyes
•     Excellent resistance to wet and sublimation
•     Low pilling
•     Problem-free recycling with normal polyester

Polyester Cationic Dyed Yarns have certain advantages over other dye yarns. They are as follows-   

·         high dyeing power leads to low dyeing costs

·         shades are obtained rapidly and so shorter dyeing times

·         complete dyeing setting means no subsequent reductive cleaning

·         no soiling of Lycra leads to excellent resistance to wet and sublimation

·         luminous tones possible gives various fashion shades

·         PES and PES cat mixtures makes creation of dual-tone effects possible

·         Higher dyeing temperature means shorter dyeing time

Often used to achieve cross dyed effects, Cationic dyed yarn is woven in a pattern with regular yarn in the same fabric. The pattern becomes visible by dyeing the fabric in 2 baths, one for each of the types of yarn.

We at Benlon India are dyeing 110 & 150 denier of polyester yarn in Bright Sparkle and Semi-Dull. We are the only spinners in India, dyeing the yarn conventionally & producing dope dyed yarn. We are quality suppliers of polyester cationic dyed yarn which is used in the saree industry in South India and Varanasi. Following are the denier range in which we manufacture Polyester Dyed Yarn -

Denier Range	Lustre	Cross Section	Type Conventional Dyed
20/Mono/3 Ply & 5 Ply (Hollow Twisted)	Bright	Trilobal	Flat Yarn
110/72/0	Bright	Cationic	Bright Cationic Dyed Texturised
150/72/0	Bright	Cationic	Texturised
150/72/0	Bright	Cationic	Bright Air Texturised
75/36/450/2	B.S.P.	Trilobal	Texturised
50/36/0	B.S.P.	Trilobal	Texturised
75/36/450 1 & 2 Ply	B.S.P.	Trilobal	Flat FDY Yarn
50/36/450	B.S.P.	Trilobal	Flat FDY Yarn
150/36/450/2	B.S.P.	Trilobal	Flat FDY Yarn
150/72 & 200/72	B.S.P.	Trilobal	Texturised

Cationic dyeable polyester has become increasingly popular in recent years as a textile yarn, primarily because cationic dyes are capable of producing brighter shades than regular (disperse) dyeable polyester. In practice, the cationic dyeable polyester is frequently combined with other fibers, such as regular (disperse) dyeable polyester, wool, or cellulosic yarns, to produce various multicolor or cross-dyed effects. It is also known to use cationic dyeable polyester in combination with other yarns which are unaffected by cationic dyes to thereby achieve color/white effects.

Cationic dyeable polyester yarn is a special polyester yarn that can be colored with cationic dye, unlike ordinary polyester yarns. Excellent color development and fastness have enabled cationic-dyeable polyester yarns to be used in many applications. Conventionally, however, they must be dyed at high temperature and pressure, making it difficult to combine them with wool, silk or other natural fibers that tend to lose strength and texture when subjected to extreme conditions. Combination with polyurethane or other elastic fiber also has been problematic.

Cationic-dyeable polyester yarns that can be dyed at ambient temperature and pressure exist, but their yarn strength is generally 20-30% below that of ordinary polyester yarns. This weakness complicates their use as differentiated yarns, such as highly multi-filament or non-circular cross-section yarn, so applications and compatible materials are limited.

If you are interested in our products and would like to be part of our growth story, please contact us on sales@benlonindia.com 

For more information about our company and our products, please visit www.benlonindia.com